Do we really need to destroy our planet to design and produce chic clothing? Are pollution and exploitation a prerequisite for success in the fashion industry? Poésie by Julie is a sustainable brand that exemplifies that fashion is not synonymous with environmental degradation and human suffering. Her entrepreneurial success demonstrates that the “players” of the fashion industry are changing and that the market is evolving rapidly as consumers are becoming increasingly sensitive to social issues that trouble society. Through this exclusive interview, she guides us through her journey, highlighting the difficulties and successes she faced throughout her career.
Every entrepreneur has a unique story behind their venture. Could you share the pivotal moment or inspiration that led you to start your eco-sustainable fashion brand?
They say that your first years in your career path are the most influential and Julie is no exception. Her first professional steps uncovered the dark side of the industry and changed her perspective on how fashion should be. Specifically, after her graduation from the London College of Fashion, she embarked on an ambitious journey to discover the world of fashion, gaining experience in the luxury and fast fashion markets. Her excitement, however, was short-lasting and was soon to be replaced by disappointment about the unethical practices used. “I quickly discovered that creativity was never truly at the heart of the job”, she narrates. Instead, it is an industry where the “copy-paste” technique is commonly used as it revolves around “copying other brands, chasing trends, and overproducing collections with no meaningful purpose”. Feeling disillusioned by her experience, the industry appeared wasteful and estranged from the craftsmanship and creativity that initially captivated her within fast fashion.
But what was the pivotal moment that persuaded her to turn the page in her career and find a new, innovative solution? It was simply an article and a documentary. “The turning point came when I read an article highlighting the fashion industry’s detrimental impact on the environment”, she reveals. This eye-opening moment, coupled with “The True Cost” documentary, broadened her awareness regarding ethical dilemmas inherent in garment production. At that point, she knew that continuing along the same trajectory was no longer an option. Her response? Writing down “ideas and draft business plans” in her spare time as she envisioned the launch of a brand that “championed sustainability, craftsmanship, and ethical practices.” Little did she know that this little brainstorming would change her life.
How do you see the intersection between art and sustainability within your designs, and how does this influence your creative process?
For numerous decades, art and sustainability were negatively correlated terms. Especially in fashion, it seemed impossible to create a popular brand without hurting the environment. After all, all the fashion colossuses still engage in resource depletion and damaging production methods. However, with the rise of fast fashion, the search for the golden ratio has been launched. “Exploring the intersection between art and sustainability in my designs is a fascinating aspect of my creative process,” she reveals. It involves delicately balancing the unleashing of creativity to craft exquisite and distinctive pieces, while also ensuring their contribution to a more sustainable future. As a designer, she considers it her moral responsibility to create garments that not only captivate visually but also endure the test of time. This involves abandoning the idea of quickly evolving trends and focusing on crafting pieces that transcend seasons, destined to be cherished and worn year after year. She highlights that “in each capsule collection, I navigate this balance by infusing boldness and creativity with a minimal and timeless aesthetic. It’s about marrying artistic expression with sustainability principles to deliver designs that resonate with both the wearer and the planet.” Ultimately, she aims to offer pieces that are mindful of their environmental footprint and crafted on-demand, ensuring uniqueness to each wearer, thereby fostering a symbiotic relationship between artistry and sustainability.
Can you share a story of a particularly innovative or unexpected material you’ve utilized in your clothing line and the journey of discovering or developing it?
The creative genius of Julie was demonstrated when she integrated an innovative eco-friendly material into the production process. As she was exploring sustainable fabrics and fibers, she came across the unique and remarkable properties of Tencel. She recalls from her early experiences of building her slow fashion brand that “as I delved deeper into the world of responsible manufacturing, Tencel stood out for its closed-loop system and unwavering commitment to transparency, sustainability, and ethics.” However, the aesthetic part is not left behind: Tencel fibers boast an unmatched luxurious feel and exceptional quality, rendering them an ideal selection for her capsule collections. From their irresistibly silky texture to their inherent breathability, Tencel fibers enhance the “comfort and durability” of each garment. “It’s a material that I proudly feature in every collection”, she admits, knowing that it not only elevates the visual appeal but also aligns seamlessly with her commitment to sustainable fashion practices.
Sustainability often involves challenging traditional business models. What unique business strategies or approaches have you adopted to maintain profitability while prioritizing ethical practices?
Additionally, her original techniques require an innovative business model. Stemming from her sustainable objective, she has adopted a “made-to-order” business model that juxtaposes the traditional “off-the-rack” tactics. At the heart of Poesie’s aims lies the idea of offering “bespoke and unique garments tailored to each client’s preferences.” This approach not only enriches the customer experience but also dramatically diminishes the potential for waste in the production process. Thus, by producing only after an order has been placed, she successfully eradicates excess inventory and curtails the environmental footprint associated with overproduction. Moreover, the made-to-order model enables her to elevate craftsmanship in every stitch with each garment meticulously fashioned with care and precision. Her entrepreneurial abilities were demonstrated by the adoption of such a pioneering model that combines ethics and profitability, underscoring that “craftsmanship and success can coexist harmoniously.”
Looking ahead, what emerging trends or developments in sustainable fashion excite you the most, and how do you plan to integrate or respond to them in your future collections?
The designer, although excited about the rapid development of the slow fashion industry, points out a challenge that small sustainable firms may face: the supply of fabrics that align with their values is limited. However, she is optimistic and believes that through the growing attention paid to such firms, this obstacle will be overcome. Her passion is ignited by the trend of developing fabrics from recycled materials. Also, she “sees a rising trend in renting garments as a sustainable alternative to purchasing new clothing for events.” Renting clothing facilitates multiple wears, therefore minimizing the environmental footprint associated with one-time-wear methods. She shows her excitement by highlighting that “I believe that this trend has the potential to reshape consumer behaviors and contribute significantly to reducing fashion waste.” She also appears enthusiastic about the prospect of collaborating with a rental platform or even creating one of her own in the future, as she firmly believes that they share a common mission.
Can you provide insight into any upcoming design themes or inspirations for your next collection, and how they align with your brand’s ethos of sustainability?
Fashion is about experimenting. It takes a lot of time and effort to design a collection that combines visual harmony and ethos, making this trendy journey a gratifying odyssey. Likewise, as Julie stated, “each previous collection has been a journey of experimentation allowing the brand and the design aesthetic to evolve into what is it today.” However, with the milestone 10th Capsule Collection for Spring/Summer 2024 approaching, she aims to create designs that “encapsulate the essence of this evolution while celebrating the timeless bestselling silhouettes that have been a hallmark of the brand since its inception.” This collection will epitomize timelessness, ethos, sustainability, and elegance. Innovation, however, is not left behind: she happily anticipates the introduction of the new “unique and luxurious” fabrics that will elevate the brand’s excellence in the “occasion wear” branch of the fashion industry. Additionally, comfort will be a dominant feature of this collection as she plans to include casual wear such as denim, offering versatile and sustainable wardrobe essentials. Overall, she describes the collection as “a fusion of traditional and innovation,” honoring the brand’s long journey while embracing new creative opportunities for growth.
Poésie: Pioneering Sustainable Fashion for a Brighter Future
In summary, Julie’s journey with Poésie represents a harmonious blend of sustainability, innovation, and creativity. So, it is time to answer the two questions posed at the beginning of the article: profitability can align with ethical values in fashion. Her forward-thinking mindset is a trait that should be adopted by all brands to make sure that creativity does not destroy the environment.