This season in Milan was fantastic. The designers decided to shape the S.S. 2025 trends to adopt the themes of optimism and joy. A perfect example is Donatella Versace, who injected positivity into a challenging world, shifting from last season’s “punk” aesthetic to a Seventies-inspired lighter style. Versace’s collection featured retro wave jacquard cardigans and metal mesh dresses decorated with floral prints. Talking about the colors, our team was amazed to see combinations of brown, yellow, and blue in a dress matched with red stockings. This idea was conceptualized to recreate the beautiful moments of pure happiness in fashion rather than merely intellectualizing clothes.

Glenn Martens, the creative director of Diesel, presented a collection that is strictly centered on sustainability. The location was fully covered in 14,800kg of denim offcuts, and the soundtrack was also chosen to highlight denim’s environmental impact, creating an unmatched scenario. Moreover, Martens proudly admitted that Diesel’s use of organic, recycled, and regenerative fibers has grown from 3% to 57% since his arrival. His collection followed the saying “Diesel is denim and denim is Diesel,” to emphasize new ways of styling denim, including anxious looks and denim treated to appear like leather. Despite stepping down from Y/Project, Martens stays committed to Diesel, focusing on making clothes designed to feel lived-in rather than overly precious.

An honorable mention must be Bottega Veneta’s show, which stood out for its fanciful animal-shaped beanbag seats made by Zanotta and tailored to fit each guest. Matthieu Blazy, the designer of the brand, picked the theme of childhood spontaneity and disruption, getting inspired by the idea of children playing dress-up in adult clothes. This brought the show to include playful elements, such as hybrid trouser skirts with a single leg and smart suits coupled with backpacks inspired by the classic kids’ school ones. The change that Blazy chose, shifts this collection from the more reflective tones of his previous one, to celebrate everyday fashion with joy. Finally, Matthieu continued to create innovation by including new materials, such as merino wool to replicate denim and by designing accessories that resemble plastic grocery bags made of nylon and leather.

Iceberg’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a vibrant tribute to the brand’s 50th anniversary. The event took place at La Pelota in Milan, and the core message of the show can be summarized in the slogan “fresh energy forever.” This sentence perfectly reflects Iceberg’s lively and optimistic spirit. The collection was amazing, the first thing we noticed was the use of bold colors like yellow, orange, and blue, evoking a pleasant sense of freshness. Moreover, modern contrasts were highlighted with jackets matched with tiny shorts. Finally, the use of different materials, from acid-toned suede to knitwear and sporty mesh, offered an unmatched blend of tradition and innovation.

The designer of Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza, stayed loyal to the identity of the brand. As a matter of fact, in his second womenswear collection, he kept using humorous and whimsical tones. The event opened with models covered in white sheets, carrying bags inspired by the shapes of household items such as teapots and laundry bottles. Some additional features included phrases printed on suits saying “What’s up!” and “Get happy”. Appiolaza’s addition of polka dots, trompe l’oeil prints, and dresses stitched on simple black outfits kept alive Moschino’s playful tradition.

This time, Dolce & Gabbana’s collection was strongly inspired by Madonna’s iconic 1990 Blond Ambition tour wardrobe. After the singer visited the designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana this summer, they came up with this brilliant idea to pay homage to a world star in a very stylish way. The show brought significant attention, with global ambassador Moon Ga-young in attendance and Madonna herself making an appearance. Once again Dolce & Gabbana is set to be the most sensual and feminine collection of the season. This is thanks to the use of accessories and details such as cone bras and garters hanging from the corsets presented in an evocative yet modern way.

Finally, new talent and fresh energy joined the heritage of brands like Tod’s, Ferragamo, and Bally. Starting from Matteo Tamburini with his clean, and modern designs for Tod’s, Maximilian Davis with the ballet-inspired designs for Ferragamo, and finally Simone Bellotti along with his quirky formal wear for Bally, they all showed the world that while many brands might share a similar “stealth wealth” style, each creative director shapes it into his unique and personal vision.