Iceberg, founded in 1974 by Silvano Gerani and Giuliana Marchini, is an Italian luxury brand renowned for its unique ability to blend sportswear and high-end fashion — this trait not only defines its aesthetics but also forms its deeper identity. No other brand’s name captures its essence as perfectly as Iceberg. It captures its multilayered identity that combines craftsmanship and vibrant aesthetics to create a meaningful and beautiful result. An iceberg is only partially visible. The majority of the mass remains hidden underwater, suggesting that there is much more to the brand than what meets the eye. This concept of depth stems from the rich history of the brand, with its origins rooted in the art of knitwear, revealing its commitment to technical expertise and dedication to high quality. Even though the legacy of the brand is less visible, it sets the foundation of Iceberg’s values and approach to fashion. On a more superficial level, above the surface of the water, Iceberg is known for its vibrant collections, with playful and colorful designs. Its innovative approach to creating fashionable sportswear gives the brand a unique character and helps it stand out in the world of fashion.

To thoroughly understand the philosophy and explore the unparalleled techniques of Iceberg, we had the honor of interviewing Paolo Gerani, the CEO of the fashion brand. During our discussion, he shared his personal experiences and opinions as an industry expert, talked about the future of the industry, and gave valuable insight regarding the brand’s heritage and legacy. 

How did your experiences and education contribute to your personal development in becoming the CEO of a brand with such a strong family heritage?

Creativity has always been the silent force that sparks innovation and guides those who dare to see the world differently. Some lucky individuals have this artistic instinct deeply ingrained, like a natural compass that points out the route toward originality. This is one of the key points that Paolo Gerani made during our discussion. Even if his education and academic path armed him with important technical knowledge for managing a business, he places equal importance on his deep passion for art and aesthetics. This inner drive led him to discover designers like Marc Jacobs, Dean and Dan Caten, Giambattista Valli, and Kim Jones. Therefore, by keeping this delicate balance between his business sense and intuitive feel for creativity, he was able to stand out in the fashion world and give a unique character to Iceberg. 

In a very chaotic and volatile period for the fashion industry, how do you keep yourself updated about the market trends and changes in the sector?

During periods of uncertainty, industries that heavily rely on innovation and creativity face unfamiliar challenges. Even if the fashion world used to be synonymous with rapidly changing trends, it now has to adapt to a new, more complex reality. Mr. Gerani reflected on this shift, highlighting that he no longer believes in trends, especially in today’s turbulent environment. For him, fashion has almost reached its limit as a trend-making force. Currently, the industry is undergoing a multifactorial crisis that has made creativity largely subordinate to the various challenges that an entrepreneur has to face. Demand is progressively becoming more rigid, and consumers seem less responsive to shifts in creativity, communication, and even price. “It is very difficult to make predictions, and if not long ago business plans were made for five years, today it may seem risky to make one for even a year” he pointed out. 

The sphere of sustainability is becoming a crucial part of the fashion industry. Please tell us what steps Iceberg is taking towards eco-friendly practices, and how do you balance them to keep a high-quality and luxurious appeal?

Sustainability is a multifaceted topic that has become a central topic of discussion in numerous industries. In response, multiple businesses have implemented eco-friendly solutions that are, unfortunately, short-lived. According to Mr. Gerani, under this trend-driven approach, firms often lose sight of the goal and pursue superficial fixes rather than focusing on policies that promote the salvation of our planet. He stressed the example of electric cars, a huge “trend” created around sustainability, where it remains unclear whether they pollute less than other energy sources. Similarly, in fashion, where recycled fabrics are widely used—an undoubtedly positive step—the environmental impact of global e-commerce practices is widely overlooked. “A lipstick produced in China, bought in Italy, and then potentially returned to China—what is the environmental impact of that?” he questioned, revealing the hidden layers of sustainability.

This year, Iceberg is celebrating its first 50 years. Since balancing tradition with modern trends is very complex, how do you integrate the core family’s values and legacy into the brand’s future vision?

There is a delicate balance between tradition and innovation. A brand must achieve the golden equilibrium, where it preserves its history by remaining loyal to its core values and continues moving forward by creating fresh designs. Iceberg has been embodying this philosophy for more than 50 years now. As Mr. Gerani pointed out, the management of the brand over these 50 years has been very eclectic, as anyone can understand by reading the book that was presented a few days ago. They inherited a significant creative legacy from Jean-Charles De Castelbajac, whose brilliance was undeniable. “At the same time, however, Gilmar has always been dynamic and attentive to intercepting the best-emerging talents, much like what is done in sports, seeking to give opportunities to young talents who seemed deserving,” he highlighted.  

Thus, Marc Jacobs, Dean & Dan, Kim Jones, Tomas Meier, Clements Ribeiro, Giambattista Valli, and many others collaborated with Iceberg, sometimes even with opposing visions that might have given the impression of an incoherent vision for the brand at the time. Still, the search for innovation has always been central to their work.

Talking about the future, tell us the vision you have for Iceberg and how you plan to keep and enlarge the brand’s relevance for the next generation of fashion consumers.

The fashion world, just like physics, is governed by a state of perpetual motion. Different external forces come together to shape its trajectory and drive its constant evolution. In the same way that particles are always in motion, the fashion industry continuously evolves through the creation of new ideas and generational shifts in preferences. Mr. Gerani fully grasps this concept, emphasizing that anticipating changes is fundamental, particularly in understanding how various future generations will approach fashion and recognizing the importance they will place on creative work. He believes that the industry is moving to a path of greater inclusivity by becoming more friendly, more affordable, and more democratic. “Fashion costs too much,” he observes, foreseeing a future where accessibility reshapes the industry.

What advice would you give to young entrepreneurs looking to establish themselves in the fashion industry?

When an entrepreneur enters an industry, they must face a demanding set of challenges, and the fashion sector is no exception to this rule. Mr. Gerani shared with us that a young entrepreneur wanting to venture into this field might face difficulties both on the production side, such as organizing all the various phases from prototype creation to garment production, and on the economic side, as fashion is still a sector with significant costs and investments, especially when considering an international dimension. However, with prevenance and a clear vision, “nothing is impossible.”