Couture has traditionally been about designing and creating clothes specific to the requirements and measurements of each customer. Corsets and well-defined silhouettes dominated the fashion scene, particularly in the 18th and 19th centuries. These pieces emphasized a cinched waist and a structured shape, showcasing the aesthetic ideals of these eras. However, Maria Grazia Chiuri, in a bold departure from these norms, decided to take an artistic turn of 180 degrees by creating chic yet comfortable clothes to liberate the body. “I don’t want to build the body, I want to release it,” she emphasized in light of this collection.
In anticipation of the Paris Olympics, her vision was to reimagine sportswear via a couture perspective. Her debut collection for Dior focuses on fencing, a sport that used to connect Ancient Greece, the architects of the game, with the 1924 Games. During this period, women were making continuous efforts to showcase their athletic talents and, given the advent of jersey fabric and the Industrial Revolution, women adopted new clothing styles that better accommodated their athletic abilities.
In today’s world, we often overlook the comfort of sports bras and leggings, but women 100 years ago wore corsets for strenuous activities such as riding a bike. The high prevalence of corsets and other restrictive clothing remains surprising. This contributes to couture’s reputation as the traditional and even antiquated part of the fashion industry. However, Chiuri’s Dior defies this expectation.
“Couture gives me the opportunity to move these references, our heritage, into new territory,” Chiuri highlighted with a tone of gratitude. “Wellness, comfort, and beauty; I think these three elements are very important in our work. But sometimes fashion is more obsessed with the silhouette or the construction than the material. I want to do clothes where the body stays well, and can move freely.”