There are brands that stay loyal to the rules. There are brands that bend them. And then there is Iceberg, the brand that broke them all.
Long before the industry-wide obsession with luxury and streetwear, before high fashion dared to embrace sportswear, Iceberg had already done it. When it launched in 1974, before Armani and Versace, it did not simply enter the fashion world, but it redefined it, breaking what was deemed unbreakable. With the audacity to transform knitwear into a symbol of rebellion and luxury, Iceberg was never about fitting in. It was about leading the revolution.
From the underground art scene to Hollywood glamour, Iceberg did not wait for culture to come to it. It became culture. Andy Warhol, Vivienne Westwood, Pamela Anderson, and Paris Hilton-style icons of different generations-were all drawn to a brand that has never followed the rules. Iceberg has forever been at the intersection of fashion, art, music, and attitude, showing that clothes are never just something you wrap around your shoulders, but it is something you declare.
Today, as Iceberg celebrates half a century of history, its legacy continues to evolve in a world more dynamic and competitive than ever, while today’s challenge is not simply staying relevant. It is shaping the future while being true to the DNA that made the brand legendary. Innovation, art influence, and an unexpected approach to design continue to be at the core of its identity.
This interview explores the milestones that define Iceberg, the vision that drives it, and the strategies that establish it as a long-term contender in the fashion world. The past has set the legacy, but the future is where the next chapter of Iceberg is written. Get ready to enter the Iceberg mindset with Paolo Gerani, CEO of Iceberg.
Iceberg has always been a benchmark in fashion, combining creativity and innovation. What are the core values guiding the brand today, and how has it evolved over time?
Iceberg entered the market as a disruptor, breaking conventions and rewriting industry expectations. Paolo Gerani explains that from the very beginning, the brand was founded on innovation, not just in terms of design but in its entire philosophy. Even the name of the brand was selected with a global vision in mind. “Iceberg” is a name that is familiar to people everywhere around the world, he explains, highlighting the brand’s aspiration to be international from the start.
Fashion at a luxury level during the 1970s was undeniably linked to formal clothing, with little room for experimentation. Iceberg changed tradition by presenting high-fashion knitwear for everyday wear. He recalls how, at the time, knitwear was generally reserved for sweaters and leisure basics, but Iceberg broke the status quo by completely re-imagining it, taking high-quality knit fabrics-technically known as “paper knit”-and creating full outfits from them, including skirts, pants, and structured garments. This revolutionized fashion, turning knitwear from a niche textile into a versatile, luxurious fabric. Sportswear is now one of the most dominant forces in fashion, but Iceberg was one of the early ones to recognize its potential and fuse it seamlessly with high fashion.
Innovation was not just in material and craftsmanship but also in the brand’s strategic narrative and communication. “The innovation was extraordinary, not only in the product but also in the way we communicated the brand,” Gerani states. This approach was driven by collaborations with Oliviero Toscani and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, two creative forces that were responsible for Iceberg’s unique visual identity. The brand’s ground-breaking campaign, “The Contemporaries”, took inspiration from contemporary art and featured some of the most recognizable personalities of the time, further breaking the boundary between fashion, art, and culture. Iceberg was more than a fashion brand-it was a movement, a label that stood for attitude, self-expression, and creative freedom.
Gerani mentions that Iceberg’s disruptive spirit was even more remarkable considering the timeline. “Iceberg truly broke all conventions, even though there weren’t many at the time-Armani was founded in 1976, Versace in 1978, while Iceberg started in 1974, at the dawn of Italian fashion,” he says. With an entirely new lifestyle-driven concept of luxury, Iceberg wasn’t just ahead of its time, but it was shaping fashion’s future.
The Gilmar Group has an incredible history, and recently, for its 50th anniversary, you released a book that retraces your journey. What inspired you to tell this story, and what are the most significant aspects of the book?
Paolo Gerani reflects on the importance of commemorating a half-century of history, with the decision to document it in a book becoming unavoidable. “There were many reasons. The first is almost logical-when you reach half a century of history, you cannot help but tell your story in a book,” he says. He acknowledges that the book published is far shorter than it could have been. “The book is actually much smaller than it could have been if we had included all the details of our journey,” he states, referencing the rich and complex history of the brand.
One principal motivating factor in writing the book was to share a great international success story and properly credit those who played a fundamental role in their success. “One motivation was to share a great international success story and to properly credit the founders for their achievements,” he notes. This tribute extends particularly to his mother, who, along with his father, founded Gilmar. Her visionary eye had a big role in recognizing the evolution of the market and the need to introduce something different.
Gerani recalls one pivotal moment in the company’s history when his mother made a risky step that determined the fate of Iceberg. “She traveled to Paris in search of new talent and, in defiance of the company director, chose Castelbaljac-the most innovative, the most revolutionary, and maybe the most difficult to work with,” he reveals. Castelbaljac, with outside-the-box and boundary-stretching ideas, was categorized as less than the obvious choice. “Today, we might call him a ‘wild card,’” Gerani points out, noting that while he was unreliable, he was also fantastically innovative.
He reflects on the nature of true innovation by stating that it is rarely the result of proper market study but rather a matter of instinct and risk-taking decision-making. “But innovations often come from instinct, not from highly intellectual market studies. Many of the greatest innovations of that time were born from people’s ingenuity,” he says.
Ultimately, Gerani finds the book to be a tribute to the history and the people who shaped it. “The book is a tribute to the history and the people who made it, such as my mother, Castelbaljac, and Oliviero Toscani, three geniuses at the heart of this project,” he concludes. With their imagination and uncompromising creativity, they helped build a brand that not only defined an era but continues to shape the fashion industry today.
Over the years, Iceberg has achieved great success in the United States, becoming an iconic brand for many celebrities, from Paris Hilton to Pamela Anderson and beyond. What strategies did you adopt to conquer this market, and how do you continue to strengthen your presence overseas?
Paolo Gerani explains that the triumph of Iceberg in America was a natural event rather than one founded on expansion strategies. “The truth is that Iceberg conquered the American market in a spontaneous, organic way. We didn’t carry out any particular proselytizing activities, but there was a natural connection between the brand and the world of art, music, and sports.”
He stresses the brand’s long-established ties with the creative world, which led to partnerships with leading figures. “Iceberg has always been close to this world. For example, Warhol, the founder of Pop Art, posed for Iceberg, as did Vivienne Westwood, one of the greatest designers.”This natural affinity with cultural icons helped Iceberg become a popular brand in the USwithout employing typical marketing tactics.
Gerani also cites the spontaneous connection between Iceberg and the American music industry, which made Iceberg a mass-based success. “The American music world fell in love with Iceberg in a very organic way, and over time, we worked to continue that dialogue with this market.”
One of Iceberg’s milestones in its American journey was the collaboration with David LaChapelle, a visionary photographer whose aesthetic perfectly suited the brand’s bold character. “The campaign I wanted to do with this absolute genius, a historically significant photographer, David LaChapelle. I’ve worked with many renowned photographers, but if I had to give an Oscar, it would go to him or Oliviero Toscani.”
A memorable collaboration of Iceberg’s was with Pamela Anderson, an effort that embeddedIceberg into pop culture. “At that point, we had already collaborated with Pamela Anderson for Iceberg Jeans, and we decided to continue the communication by innovating it.” Gerani insists that the success of Iceberg in the US has always derived from culture, creativity, and the capability to evolve while remaining authentic to its DNA.
While Iceberg’s success in the United States is evident, the Italian market presents a different challenge. Are you working to strengthen the brand’s connection with the Italian audience? If so, what strategies are you using to consolidate your presence in the country?
The Italian market must be approached in a different way, shaped by the evolution of the fashion industry over the decades. “The topic is complex, and a fundamental premise must be made. When we talk about Iceberg and its success, we are referring to a historical period in which there was no global market.” At that time, creativity was the absolute priority, and designers had complete freedom without needing to adapt to international demand. Now, with globalization, business has changed, and pure creativity is no longer dominant since brands now need to consider the needs of diverse international consumers. “After globalization, even pure creativity has changed because today it struggles to stand out, as one cannot aspire to emerge in the world without taking into account the needs of the world.”
Despite the obstacles, Iceberg maintains its stronghold on Italian tradition while making way for an expanding competitive and globalized marketplace. The brand is interested in maintaining its identity and building loyalty in new markets so that it evolves while staying authentic. “We are Italian, but we stay true to our DNA while trying to maintain and build loyalty in new markets without making too many changes, even if today’s market makes everything more complex.”The goal is to navigate this changing landscape without betraying the essence that has defined Iceberg for decades, rendering it both relevant and recognizable in an ever-evolving fashion world.
Today, a brand’s digital presence is essential for success. How does Iceberg plan to evolve its digital strategy to engage an increasingly connected audience?
The digital world presents both opportunities and threats, particularly in the post-COVID era when consumer behavior is shifting unpredictably. The fashion industry, which was once guidedby clear strategies, is now operating in a “thick fog,” as defined by Paolo Gerani, where brands have to fight with uncertainty while trying to maintain stability. This complexity is due to a spectrum of geopolitical tensions, economic unpredictability, as well as shifting consumer attitudes, which made it difficult to predict audience response to fashion in the long term.
One of the most important transformations has been the decline of traditional media and the dominance of digital platforms. While the move away from print was inevitable, the rapidly evolving nature of e-commerce and social media has created a highly competitive and dynamic environment. Gerani is aware that while digital communication is an indispensable tool of business, the industry’s obsession with social media can similarly become overwhelming in the sense that brands need to strategically keep their presence and not simply follow what is trendy.
Building long-term consumer loyalty has become increasingly difficult, as consumers are bombarded by an endless stream of content, and brands must continually innovate to stay relevant. Iceberg recognizes that engaging with its public in meaningful ways, beyond digital presence, is essential. As Gerani puts it, “It is evident that we must move forward and continue to communicate. Social media, which today represents a certainty, is evolving rapidly.”
The challenge of Iceberg is to adapt to this shift without sacrificing its brand loyalty, ensuring that online endeavors not only capture attention but also form long-term relationships in an industry that is constantly redefining itself.
Do you believe that the “fog” you mentioned earlier is starting to clear and that we are nearing the end of this period, or is this just the beginning?
The volatility of the world economy and the fashion market remains high, and it is difficult to predict when things will go back to normal. As much as optimism is a necessity of any entrepreneur, the challenges ahead suggest that this phase of instability is far from over. “I would like to be optimistic because an entrepreneur, by definition, must be optimistic, but I think we are not at the end of a journey; rather, we are still inside the fog, and I believe it will last for quite some time.”
This is not only due to economic issues but also due to underlying structural issues in Europe. Sluggish wages, mounting business expenses, and the declining birth rate have created a population imbalance that influences not just innovation but consumer spending as well. An aging population leads to a risk-averse market that slows down economic expansion and reduces the demand for new products. “I also believe that this country has a demographic problem with very few births; therefore, it is an old country that neither innovates nor consumes.”
As businesses such as Iceberg change, these underlying issues construct a dangerous future, with brands needing to keep pace with shifting consumer behaviors, economic pressures, and rapidly changing market conditions. Without fundamental changes to economic policy and population trends, the sector’s problems will probably remain endemic for the foreseeable future.
Looking to the future, what are Iceberg’s next objectives? Can we expect new collaborations, stylistic innovations from James Long, or any upcoming projects?
Iceberg’s future strategy is stability, quality, and brand identity, not the risk of a jump into the unknown in an unpredictable marketplace. “There are no particular secrets. We have had a great relationship with James for years-he knows the brand’s DNA and understands how to innovate and evolve with caution because, as I said earlier, this is not the time to jump into the void.”
The brand keeps on offering products that reflect its identity yet maintain a strong price-quality balance, something Gerani sees as increasingly important in today’s fashion industry. “Fashion is too expensive, and too often, there is no good price-quality ratio.”
Iceberg is also working on exclusive capsule collections with details remaining confidential. However, rather than marketing and communications, the firm is focusing on solid fundamentals during this uncertain time. Visibility and innovation remain key, but Gerani believes addressing fundamental issues in the industry is now more crucial than ever.
Certainly, every period of crisis also brings important opportunities that are not available in easier, more prosperous times.
Paolo Gerani acknowledges this perspective as he believes that challenging times provide opportunities for innovation, but not everyone can identify the right path when surrounded by a cloud of uncertainty. “I agree, but you need the skills that not everyone has to navigate through a black fog,” Gerani remarks. Even if a crisis forces brands to respond and redefine their strategies, only visionaries and resilient individuals can leverage such occasions.
That being said, he acknowledges that difficult times can also be a chance to shine. “I agree that every period of crisis can be a great time to rise above,” he adds. To succeed during such periods is to make well-thought-out moves, to have a strong brand reputation, and to understand when to gamble and when to play it safe.
To conclude, Iceberg’s future is rooted in strategic evolution rather than drastic reinvention. As Paolo Gerani leads Iceberg through an unpredictable and shifting fashion landscape, the brand refuses to relinquish stability, quality, and authenticity but adapts to suit evolving consumer sentiments and global issues. Crises always create uncertainty but also present avenues for those individuals who can balance innovation with resilience. By remaining true to its DNA while embracing change, Iceberg will continue to be a luxury sportswear leader, demonstrating that strength comes from vision and flexibility.